Tokyo Flea Markets in December
Last December 2024, we happened to be in Tokyo the same time as two huge flea market events: 1) Setagaya Boro-ichi and 2) Oeda Antique Market.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Where we stayed
We stayed at remm plus Ginza in Ginza. We chose a hotel close to the Asakusa line as we had an early departure for our flight back home. The Asakusa line happens to be a direct line to Narita Airport with the earliest train at around 5am, so if you have a 9am flight like we did, consider taking the Asakusa line because Narita Express and buses start service at around 7-8am which is too late for our 9am flight. It’s an affordable option too, at about 1,400yen per person.
One more tip would be to stay at a stop that’s before Asakusa as there are a lot more passengers getting on there, and there may not be any seats left (that’s 1 hour of standing).
The hotel also happened to be a block away from a Don Quixote which is very convenient if you want to bring home lots of souvenirs/goodies.
Oedo Antique Market
The weekend we happened to be in Tokyo coincided with both flea markets and luckily we were able to go to both on separate days. First, we went to the Oedo Antique Market, which happens every month. You can check the link for their dates.
Before heading there, we grabbed breakfast and coffee at Roar Coffee - one of the few cafes in Ginza that opens early at 8am. The cafe was already full when we got there around 8:30 but luckily we were able to grab a seat.
After breakfast, we walked towards the market and came across this fresh orange juice vending machine! Such a novelty and honestly cheaper than fresh OJ in the Philippines (no need to import and all). Bellies full, we definitely didn’t mind the quiet Sunday morning walk in an otherwise busy Ginza.
By the time we arrived at the market, it was buzzing with market goers and vendors! The market itself felt more curated, more of a collector’s market. From the usual tableware, Japanese art, jewelry, to furniture I wish I could’ve brought home, home decor, used kimonos, and random but aesthetic stuff even flat laid for a pinterest board! There were seasoned vendors who knew their wares and the prices reflected it haha. And even though I only bought one cute little maneki neko ceramic piece, there were so many interesting things to see and a great way to spend a chill Sunday morning.
How to get to Setagaya
The next day, it was time to head to Setagaya for both the flea market and Gotokuji Temple.
The Setagaya Boroichi flea market has been running since 1578 with over 700 vendors! It happens twice a year, every January 15-16 and December 15-16, regardless of what day of the week, unlike most markets which are weekends only.
Aside from the flea market, Setagaya is home to Gotokuji Temple, aka the Cat temple and the neko train. One of my hopes was to be able to catch the neko train as it runs a few times during the day.
There are multiple line options to get to Setagaya depending on where you’re coming from, but if you want to try catching the neko train, you’ll need to get on the yellow line.
We started our morning catching the train to Gotokuji from Ginza. Once on the train to Shibuya, you may notice the line colors will shift from green to yellow and you’ll be asked to stay on the train. Disembark at __ station and there you’ll have to exit the train station up to the street level and walk a few blocks to the Setagaya station. There you catch the train (technically a tram) to Setagaya. When we arrived, there was already so much people waiting for the incoming tram that we decided to take the next one that luckily wasn’t too long after. And guess what? It was the neko train! If you’re wanting to catch it, you can also ask the train conductors/officers by the ticket booth entrance to ask for its schedule.
Catching it felt like an extra sprinkle of luck sent your way because after that one ride, we didn’t see it anymore throughout the day. So if you’re a cat lover, I hope you get to ride it!
We got off Minayosaka station and first went for a coffee at ENgrave Coffee Roasters before making our way to the temple.
We decided to take the walk to the tree lined path to the temple entranceree lined path to the temple entrance. One part visuals, and another because it’s not something we have back home (tree lined streets and parks :(). From the outside, the temple looks like a normal temple. But upon closer inspection, you’ll start seeing traces of cats.
Gotokuji Temple
There are 2 ways to get figurines at the temple office: via vending machine or at the counter. The line via vending machine was so long (credit only) so I opted to go purchase at the counter. By the time we went, certain sizes of the figurine were already sold out. After getting your figurine, head out to the area where the figurines go. I’ve seen others write on it, but there was a sign instructing not to and how it’s disrespectful.
As for when to leave it, some say that you don’t leave the figurine but instead to make a wish, take it with you and come back to Japan to leave it at the temple once your prayer/wish has been granted. Others say it’s okay to pray/make a wish and leave it there on your first visit. I’ll leave you to your preferences, but I prayed over mine and left it there where it was safer vs accidentally breaking it xD
Setagaya Boroichi Flea Market
After the temple, we grabbed lunch before following the crowd heading towards the market.
In terms of wares, it felt more flea market vs. Oedo. While curated vendors were still there, the pricing and items in general seemed more budget friendly vs collector items and pricing. There are plenty of street food vendors as well if you get hungry.
Not gonna lie, the crowd was pretty intense. We eventually just went down the main street, but there were so much more side streets filled with vendors. It was honestly very overwhelming which was a bit surprising considering the second day fell on a Monday.
